INTERVIEW: Nineta Marcu, Founder & CEO of Marab Perfumery

In recent years, niche perfumery has become an increasingly sophisticated field, where choice is no longer determined solely by olfactory preferences, but also by the stories and cultures behind a fragrance. Within this landscape, Marab Perfumery has developed its own concept, bringing together creations that bridge the gap between tradition and modernity.

With a portfolio strongly inspired by the refinement of oriental perfumery and a selection that emphasises creations with personality, Marab offers a perspective on fragrance in which discovery matters just as much as choice. From established houses to lesser-known names, each fragrance becomes part of a selection built around curiosity and the pleasure of finding something different.

After more than a decade dedicated to discovering and curating niche perfumes, Marab has opened a new chapter: its own brand and a debut collection of five fragrances, built around a personal perspective on perfumery. The collection was unveiled at Beautyworld Middle East 2025.

We spoke to Nineta Marcu, Founder & CEO of Marab Perfumery, about Marab's beginnings, the influence of the East, olfactory memory and the evolution of the public’s preferences when it comes to artisanal perfumery.

1. How did the Marab Perfumery concept come about?

The story of Marab Perfumery began around 14 years ago, with my first trip to Dubai. There, I discovered a genuine culture of perfume and, above all, a ritual that was given the attention it deserved.

From the aromatic smoke of bakhoor and the depth of oud, to perfume oils, layering and compositions so complex and unlike anything I’d ever experienced before, every olfactory encounter opened up a whole new world to me. It was there that I first discovered oud, notes of saffron, spices, resins and the way these notes transformed on the skin. Everything was more intense, more vibrant, more sensory.

I was also fascinated by the natural way in which perfume was integrated into people’s lives. It wasn’t just the act of applying a fragrance, but an entire ritual – smoke, oils, layering, atmosphere – through which the fragrance became almost an extension of the wearer’s identity.

For me, encountering this world felt like a revelation. There was that very rare feeling that I had just discovered something that truly represented me, even though until then it had not been part of my professional life.

I returned to Romania, closed down the business I’d built up over 12 years, and two weeks later I was back in Dubai, this time with a business plan. That’s how Marab Perfumery began – first out of fascination, then out of a desire to bring this culture of perfume to Romania and make it known to an audience.

2. Fragrance acts as a vehicle. Which ingredient instantly transports you back to a moment in the past?

Smell has an almost instinctive ability to reawaken memories and emotions, sometimes before the mind has even had a chance to place them in context. All it takes is encountering a familiar scent for a place, a person or a feeling we thought we’d forgotten to return with surprising clarity.

In my case, my olfactory memory is closely linked to my childhood: the coffee my grandmother used to make in the mornings, quince or plum jam, the vanilla in desserts, the caramelised apples I used to buy near home. And, on a completely different note, the scent of the sea and of seashells – one of those scents I recognise anywhere and which instantly evokes a certain mood.

If, however, I had to choose a single note, it would probably be vanilla – that deep, warm, slightly amber-tinged scent, which takes on different nuances depending on what surrounds it. Paired with wood, it can become elegant; combined with smoky notes, it takes on an air of mystery; and when blended with musk, it becomes almost intimate.

Perhaps that is precisely why perfume fascinates me so much: it has this extraordinary ability to preserve fragments of our lives and bring them back to us, sometimes after many, many years.

3. I’ve noticed that the fragrances on display have a distinctive oriental elegance. How important is the visual appeal of a fragrance?

It is important, because the experience of a perfume begins before you even smell it. First you see it, you touch it, you discover the bottle, the materials, the proportions, the details. All of these create an initial emotion and, in a way, draw you into its world.

In Oriental perfumery, this dimension is all the more pronounced. Ever since my first encounter with the East, I have been fascinated by the attention paid to ritual and beauty – from the containers for bakhoor and the vials of scented oils to the gestures through which the fragrance is worn and offered. There is a certain aesthetic generosity that is very specific to this culture.

For Marab, however, I wanted this influence to be reinterpreted. To retain the sensuality and richness of the East, but in a contemporary, more balanced expression. I like luxury that reveals itself gradually, through details, not the kind that feels the need to make a statement.

I believe that a successful fragrance must create a sense of coherence between what you see and what you then discover on the skin. The visual aspect may spark the initial curiosity, but it is the fragrance that must linger in the memory.

4. The Marab Perfumery portfolio features a wealth of surprising creations to suit all tastes. But how do customers perceive the niche fragrances you offer?

The Marab customer is, generally speaking, someone who is looking for something different. They are curious, seek authenticity and want to be surprised by creations with a distinct identity, not just fragrances that follow a trend.

In fact, this has always been our selection criterion. The Marab portfolio includes traditional perfume houses, some with a history stretching back over a century, as well as contemporary creations in which the richness of Oriental perfumery is reinterpreted in a modern language. The great houses of the East have evolved enormously in recent years, retaining their roots whilst crafting increasingly sophisticated compositions that naturally find their place within European niche perfumery.

We haven’t necessarily followed brands or trends. We’ve sought out compositions with personality, olfactory performance and a concept behind them – perfumes that have something to say. I like to say that, over time, we’ve selected olfactory treasures, one by one. I believe it is precisely this careful selection that has come to define Marab.

At first, our customers approached us with a great deal of curiosity and, at times, a slight reluctance in the face of such a different world. Gradually, they discovered not only the fragrances themselves, but also the culture surrounding them – the ritual, the layering, the ingredients – and a different way of understanding and wearing perfume.

After 14 years, I feel that we have grown alongside our customers. Marab's customers have become more daring in their choices and are now looking for fragrances through which to express their individuality.

As tastes and the market have matured, Marab's selection has evolved too: whilst the portfolio was initially built around perfume houses from the East, today we bring together creations from different olfactory cultures, yet united by the same commitment to authenticity, character and expression.

5. We are all aware of Romanians’ affinity for oriental fragrances. Which scents are the most sought-after?

There is, indeed, a very interesting affinity amongst the Romanian public for oriental perfumery. I think we like fragrances with presence and personality – ones that can be smelled and that leave a lasting impression.

Oud remains, of course, one of the signature notes. I find it fascinating to think that, 14 years ago, I was explaining to customers what oud was, and today there are people who walk into a perfumery and ask for it specifically. It is probably one of the clearest signs of how perfume culture has changed in Romania.

At the same time, vanilla, amber, musk, sandalwood, leather notes, and woody and spicy notes are highly prized. The gourmand style continues to be highly sought after, but preferences are shifting towards more nuanced compositions, in which gourmand accords are counterbalanced by woody, amber, spicy or smoky facets, creating fragrances with greater depth and character.

In fact, I believe it is precisely this contrast that makes an oriental fragrance truly interesting today. Vanilla can take on a new depth when paired with smoky accents, a fruity accord can become far more sophisticated alongside leather, and saffron can lend that distinctive touch to a woody or amber composition.

And I believe this is where one of the most beautiful evolutions in taste has taken place: whilst oriental fragrances were initially associated primarily with intensity and longevity, today’s customers are looking for much more. They seek structure, how the fragrance develops on the skin, originality and, above all, an olfactory signature.

If the story of Marab has piqued your curiosity, we invite you to explore their olfactory universe further: https://marab-perfumery.ro/.